The Italian mountain resort that offers a mild, affordable summer escape

 Trekking across a snow-blanketed glacier at the highest accessible point of the Alps was a far cry from my previous holidays in Italy. This year, I eschewed sweltering cities and beaches overflowing with people and parasols in favour of a cooler, more active adventure in the country’s mountainous north.

Just south of the French border, 30 minutes from popular Chamonix, Courmayeur in Italy’s Aosta Valley region is snuggled below the “sunny side” of Mont Blanc, the highest peak in Western Europe. Well-loved for its winter sport offerings, the traditional mountain town draws nearly half a million Britons during the ski season, but that number drops by more than 75 per cent come the warmer months.

That’s not to say Alpine resorts are completely empty at this time of year. As heatwaves become more extreme, there is growing interest in cooler holiday destinations; UK bookings for Club Med’s summer mountain breaks are up 20 per cent year-on-year.

The resorts have a different feel compared to winter, however. Après-ski crowds are replaced by hikers, climbers, cyclists, food-lovers, and wellness enthusiasts seeking great-value luxury and fresh alpine air.

Up at 3,500 metres on the Mont Blanc massif, the air couldn’t get much fresher. It was just 4°C, but the sun was warm. Crampons kept my boots gripped to the ­glacier as ropes tethered me to fellow trekkers “in case any of us fell in a crevasse”.

Despite the troubling warning and the occasional sound of an avalanche grumbling in the distance, the single-file hike across this icy expanse felt peaceful. “It’s a powerful place,” said Marco, my guide from the Courmayeur Society of Alpine Guides, which, founded in 1850, is the world’s second oldest association of its kind.

We descended from the mountaintop via Skyway Monte Bianco, a futuristic, rotating cable car system rebuilt in 2015. A return ticket costs £49 – not cheap, but worth it for a full day out.

At the mid-level Pavillion Station (2,173 metres), I tucked into a two-course buffet lunch of mushroom ravioli and tiramisu for £20 at Ristorante Alpino, before checking out the winery. Cave Mont Blanc crafts just 1,000 bottles of its unique sparkling wine a year, the extreme atmospheric pressure creating tiny bubbles.

Nicolas, the winery’s president, popped open a bottle with an ice axe and poured me a glass. The bubbles fizzed lightly on my tongue as I gazed out over the pine-draped slopes and down to where Courmayeur appeared in miniature, the verdant landscape around it a sharp contrast to the snowy surface I’d just left behind.

A Skyway journey down the mountain brought me back to town and my accommodation, the family-run Gran Baita Hotel and Wellness Resort.

Some of the 50 rooms come with private plunge pools, but I was more than happy to make do with my balcony view of the Alps and a restorative session in the hotel’s pool and sauna.

Rooms in this four-star chalet cost from £172 a night in summer – considerably less than the equivalent in French resorts such as Courchevel and Chamonix.

Courmayeur’s public transport helped to keep costs down. Newly introduced e-bikes made it easy to explore the town and nearby villages such as medieval Entrèves, for as little as £3 an hour. Better yet, local buses are free, offering frequent services to Courmayeur’s gorgeous, walkable valleys.

A 15-minute bus ride takes you to Val Ferret, where I had a 4km stroll from Planpincieux to Lavachey and back, the midday temperature a pleasant 24°C. A sparkling turquoise stream ran alongside me, while towering waterfalls and snowy peaks, including the looming summit of Mont Blanc, forced my gaze upwards. It was peaceful and flat – perfect for a slow-paced walk or cycle.

The next day I picked a more challenging adventure, heading up to Plan Chécrouit via the Dolonne gondola. From here, I zig-zagged up wildflower-covered slopes, accompanied by the jingle of cowbells and chirping crickets.

After climbing more than 300 metres in altitude, I rewarded myself with an Aperol spritz on Chez Ollier’s sunny terrace, as mountain bikers zipped past on a newly opened summer trail – designed to further the resort’s adventure appeal outside of ski season.

Evenings were for refuelling in the centre of Courmayeur, a 10-minute walk from my hotel. Although French influence is noticeable (the town’s name, for instance), its Italian soul still shines – especially when it comes to its culinary offerings. In the vibrant yet laid-back central piazza, backed by a restored 11th-century church and mini museum dedicated to alpine guides, I had an aperitif as the sun dipped behind the mountains.

While designer shops dominate the pedestrianised high street, traditional restaurants can be found tucked between them. At La Terrazza, I was welcomed by Ciro, the grey-moustached owner, who opened this rustic establishment more than 30 years ago. His nostalgic menu features alpine ingredients like trout, fontina (cheese), and boudin (sausage). I opted for pasta: a rich egg bigoli topped with crunchy guanciale, costing £18.